matiae

With a heavy box of matiae (Indian sweets) in hand, we wait in anticipation for what will be our first real Indian treat--dinner at the home of one of our favourite colleagues.It doesn't get more authentic than this.

Uttamji soon arrives in a private black auto rickshaw and greets us with his signature mischievous grin. His laugh, like a car horn during rush hour in the Main Ghat, is infectious.

We swerve past goats and cattle on rocky alleys and finally reach the destination. A palace-like apartment complex, with wrought iron gates and white balconies.

The interior is dim and concrete, but filled with the warmth of family. Once seated, we are immediately indulged with never ending cold drinks, and salty and sweet snacks. Uttamji proudly plays his daughter's wedding DVD for us. Like a Bollywood movie, it is long, full of loud music, has colourful graphics, and the characters sometimes break out in what seems like spontaneous dance. Brimming with pride Uttamji points out each and every member of his immediate and extended family, and even calling his long-distance daughter so we can meet her via telephone.

The food is exactly what we have been craving for since arriving in Baranas weeks ago -- home cooking. Uttamji's wife prepared paneer, three kinds of subjis, rice and chipatti, and his son, an avid cricket fan, is the night's server. And despite feeling stuffed, we request second helpings--the biggest compliment to the chef, if only just to see Uttamji's face light up with delight.

Later, while standing around the driveway in the cool nighttime air, Uttamji's wife puts her hand on my shoulder and says in Hindi:"You all should feel like my home is your home. You are welcome back any time."

Sweet nothings before a dark ride home.